Female sport climbing outside

Strength Training for Advanced Climbers
(Ready to project outdoor 5.13 and up! You should be comfortable with any gym problem or route.
Projecting V7 & up… which covers a ton of territory. AKA Projecting Hard $#!+)


“All things are bound together. All things connect.”

Chief Seattle


I’ve said it in the previous blogs, but it bears repeating. “Difficult” great! There isn’t any point to an exercise that isn’t hard.  Pain is never OK.  Modify, or have someone observe painful movements to see what’s wrong; don’t push through it.

The things that are hardest for you, are likely the things you need to work on.  The stuff you avoid is what you need to keep on you workout list.

Be specific with your training. Be mindful of goals and stay prioritized.  There are only so many hours in each day. Eliminate the “easy” stuff on your workout plan.  To advance exercises, try it on one foot or one hand. Try it on an unstable surface like a BOSU, or cushion.  Try it with eyes closed.  Do it with a climbing cone, ball, or cylinder (they are removable–attach them to the pulleys).

NOTE! Every exercise you do is a “core” exercise if you are doing it correctly.  Form is of the upmost importance in any phase for any athlete. Reps and sets don’t matter if they are sloppy.  You are reinforcing bad habits and movements if you aren’t moving with purpose, focus, and good form.  This is why most online strength training programs fail, or worse, lead to injury.


Movements to Master:

  1. “Starfish” Side Plank with a lateral hip dip toward the floor
    Starfish Exercise
  2. Pull up to mantel with bars or rings
    Pull Up
  3. Pistol Squat: start with finger on TRX or a doorknob for support. Keep your knee behind your toes to prevent patellofemoral issues. USE YOUR BUTT! Think about straightening your hip, not just straightening your knee.
    Pistol Squat
  4. Turkish Get Ups: Truly an antagonistic movement for climbers! These are excellent for balance & shoulder stability, so BONUS!
  5. Jumping without a sound (quiet feet drill): box jumps, triple jumps, or your choice, but no sound with your landing. Your hips should shock absorb as if you are on springs

You can also begin hang boarding and finger specific strength.  Finger workouts will be posted in another blog.

Looking to keep yourself accountable as you work on progressing in your climbing? Contact us at ATHENA where we specialize in injury prevention, massage therapy, strength training, climbing assessments, core training, and sports nutrition.



Contact Us Today


2540 Lava Ln, Santa Clara, UT 84765

Phone: (503) 980 5712
Hours: 6:00 AM - 9:00 PM

ATHENA Massage is also mobile!

Climb assessment and training available through Facetime, Skype, Zoom, or app of your choice.

Contact us at: (503) 980-5712

ATHENA | Massage & Fitness